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1937 Dodge Rat Rod Truck Build

Frame Build for Dodge Rat Rod Truck.

Posted on April 30, 2020May 12, 2020 by scott.mcgregor

Probably the most intimidating part of the build so far. Like every other part of this build I started to do my research and figure out my starting point. “How do I build a custom frame” or do I start with something existing and try to make that work. S10 frame swaps are super popular but I see a lot of pitfall and a lot of rework to make those frames work. I found the link below which is about building a rat rod on an extremely low budget. In the article he goes over all the basics of building your own custom frame. Well that looks easy… WCGW?

https://www.rodauthority.com/tech-stories/chassis-safety/el-cheapo-building-rat-rod-1500-episode-4-frame/

So I figured for a couple hundred bucks and some time I could at least try and see what I come up with. So I ordered my Steel and got to hacking away. This is how I did it, this is probably the worst way you can go about doing it. Please don’t take anything on this page as the “Right way”.

First think I did was measure the length of the cab, I laid out some marks on the floor beside the cab to represent the extreme back of the cab. The cab has a slight curve along the back to it was easiest to transfer that on the floor so I could get a accurate idea of the length to the fire wall.

sitting on floor getting measurements
put the truck back together to get my measurements (hood and grill just sitting on the floor)

I wanted to build a double Z frame which is just stepping up the frame in the front and the back to drop the cab lower. I wanted to hide the front Z on the interior of the cab… So I decide to follow the angle of the old fire wall. This way my front Z would be hidden from view and give the truck what I thought would be a cleaner look.

So now I knew my measurements the cab area needed to be 46″ long the Z was a 36 degree angle up and the motor needed at least 40″ of frame to use the original hood and grill. This is a bit long but I can trim it off later. Now the cab section of the frame had to support the rear step up as well so I had to add 4 inches to the measurement.

Just tack welding the parts together for now. I can go back later and really burn them in and finalize the welds. I will probably have someone else finish the welds on the frame as I am really new to welding and probably not the best part to learn on.

Added the start of the rear kick up as well. These ended up being 12 inches. I sorta guessed that the height I wanted them and figured I could trim them down later if I didn’t like it. So after I had both sides complete. I laid out both sides on jack stands and leveled and squared them up. I then measured the firewall on the front of the cab to figure out the max width I could get through that space. Turns out that was 29.5 Inches. So I cut 2 temp 1×1 steel braces at 25.5 inches long. Once I Was happy with the level and squareness of the frame I tacked those into place. These will come out later when the rest of the frame goes on and the front Axle cross member arrives.

Next I wanted to see if my measurements were correct so I had to get the cab on to the frame. So my lovely wife gave me a hand and we wrestled the cab up on to the frame.

success I can use a measuring tape.

Cab fit and the front Z fell exactly where I wanted it. Now I wanted to test the hood and grill.

uh oh

So the Original grill mounts are too high so the whole hood sit way up. Not a good look. What if I mount it from the bottom of the frame?

That looks better but the grill hangs down far too low but that will be another days problem. The other thing I learned was the grill mounts narrow in at the front of the frame. Down to 26.5 so I know I have to narrow the frame at some point.

So now I need to know how much frame to build on the rear of the truck so I had to figure out the wheel base. More measuring more staring… more beers drank.

Little helper

I settled on roughly 96″ for the wheel base… why? cause it looked cool. So now I was able to figure out how much frame I would need on the rear of the truck. Turns out to be 48 inches. I decided to build this part on the floor and mount it to the existing frame. As I just welded together a 48×29.5″ box. Tack welded again as I know I will make changes as I go.

relocated to different part of the shop first. Easier to leave it here.

With the rear portion of the frame welded on I wanted to make sure everything was square and level still.

Nope!! the back part of the frame had a slight twist in it. the back passenger side was down 1/4 of an inch. I welded this part on the floor so my floors must be a bit outta whack. No biggie I cut my tack welds and got it all leveled out and welded back together.

So now I have a semi complete frame that is level and square, it fits my cab and wheel base. From this point I can start thinking about the axles and suspension. I will come back and finalize the frame once I know every thing will fit.

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